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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
OK, here is what I have found. Courtesy Joe Moot on Facebook for some tips. Joe got a small "car" pump hose stuck in his fill and ended up ripping the "easy fill" device out. I am having a similar issue as one pump wouldn't fit and another was very hard to insert, both of the "small car" type. Even my funnel was very hard to put in.

I decided to remove it as Joe had done. He advised me it just has to have the tabs removed and then you can pry off the green plastic. I modified his a little bit by inserting a wire tie under each tab and then prying up with a screw driver. The wire ties hold the tabs open so they don't need to be broken and will be fine if you need to reverse this. The entire operation took 15 minutes. Also it is totally reversible I think as all I need to do is put the components back in and press into place. Joe ended up down to metal but on mine I still have a plastic collar which seems to seal dirt still but appears to be large enough to accept the big boy pumps at truck stops. I put my funnel in and still have close to 1/2" clearance.

Further, Joe used a rubber pipe cap to close it off between fills. That works great but it is a little tight, so there might be something out there that can substitute for a better fit. By the way, Joe cautions that it is better to remove the painted door over the fill area as it is very costly if you end up breaking it. I was careful and it worked out OK.

Note on one photo you see the green thing is gone but there is a black plastic thing still there. It just lifts off and will be stored for if I want to change back to stock. That leaves the white plastic I didn't remove.

The photos seem to be in some random sort of order, sorry.

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Thanks for the info. I need to do this! Only problem I see and a remote issue, is that after you put on the Black Cap, there is nothing to let you know it requires diesel. Only an issue if someone else is using your vehicle and forgets it's a diesel!
 

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Thanks for the info. I need to do this! Only problem I see and a remote issue, is that after you put on the Black Cap, there is nothing to let you know it requires diesel. Only an issue if someone else is using your vehicle and forgets it's a diesel!
Here's the solution to that potential issue.


 

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OK, here is what I have found. Courtesy Joe Moot on Facebook for some tips. Joe got a small "car" pump hose stuck in his fill and ended up ripping the "easy fill" device out. I am having a similar issue as one pump wouldn't fit and another was very hard to insert, both of the "small car" type. Even my funnel was very hard to put in.

I decided to remove it as Joe had done. He advised me it just has to have the tabs removed and then you can pry off the green plastic. I modified his a little bit by inserting a wire tie under each tab and then prying up with a screw driver. The wire ties hold the tabs open so they don't need to be broken and will be fine if you need to reverse this. The entire operation took 15 minutes. Also it is totally reversible I think as all I need to do is put the components back in and press into place. Joe ended up down to metal but on mine I still have a plastic collar which seems to seal dirt still but appears to be large enough to accept the big boy pumps at truck stops. I put my funnel in and still have close to 1/2" clearance.

Further, Joe used a rubber pipe cap to close it off between fills. That works great but it is a little tight, so there might be something out there that can substitute for a better fit. By the way, Joe cautions that it is better to remove the painted door over the fill area as it is very costly if you end up breaking it. I was careful and it worked out OK.

Note on one photo you see the green thing is gone but there is a black plastic thing still there. It just lifts off and will be stored for if I want to change back to stock. That leaves the white plastic I didn't remove.

The photos seem to be in some random sort of order, sorry.

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Nice work on providing this info.
But as I was reading I started thinking. I always thought with the stock green cap installed the opening was the same size as a gasser. Is that true? If it’s smaller then a gasser then I think (for my own mental health) I would leave it as is to prevent the costly mistake of have gasoline put in my tank.
So does anyone know if the stock opening in our diesel trucks is the same size as a standard gasoline vehicle?
 

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I can verify that a gasoline nozzle doesn't easily go into the stock green fuel opening on our trucks...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am going to order a "Diesel Fuel Only" sticker for inside the fuel door area. Still looking for exactly what I want as there are dozens on Ebay. Thanks for the reminder. I doubt I would make the mistake of pumping gas but I can see where it can happen if someone else is using the truck.

Leaving it as it is would require a trip or two to the dealer because it wasn't working well- hard to insert and hard to pull out. (There is a joke in there somewhere). ;)
 

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Nice work on providing this info.
But as I was reading I started thinking. I always thought with the stock green cap installed the opening was the same size as a gasser. Is that true? If it’s smaller then a gasser then I think (for my own mental health) I would leave it as is to prevent the costly mistake of have gasoline put in my tank.
So does anyone know if the stock opening in our diesel trucks is the same size as a standard gasoline vehicle?
Gas fuel nozzles are smaller than diesel nozzles, as such the openings on these trucks are already bigger than those of gas vehicles. The goal with removing the capless fuel fill neck is to be able to use the large high flow truck stop fuel nozzles.
 

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I was wondering if anybody has done this and then actually filled using a larger, high speed diesel pump. Looks like the original poster was assuming it could be done because of the funnel fit. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The only way to use a truck stop high speed pump is to remove all components until you just have an open pipe. You can then cap it with the rubber plumbing cap. Wish Ford made it simple.
 
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Dunrollin, thanks for your response. Have you done this on yours or know somebody that has? I am looking to purchase a 2021, but I need to fuel in the truck lanes because of the Travel Trailer I pull. Have been doing this with my F-350 for years. Was already to order the F-150 until I realized that this would be an issue. Has me looking at the Ram now because it looks like their inlet is big enough for the truck lane pumps (but trying to see if somebody on their forum can confirm for sure). I would prefer the Ford, but this is actually a deal killer for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
@Ryker14750 Yes, I did it on mine and I know a few guys that have. (Not on here but on the facebook F150 diesel sites) It is maybe a 30 minute operation but there is no going back. You end up with a nice fill pipe opening and the rubber cap is fine, but anyone that wants their truck stock will not want to do it. It came in real handy on a recent trip with both the motorhome and truck. She would just pull up to one side of the truck stop pump and I would take the other. I could fill both real fast.

I originally did it as we took a long trip using anything but interstates. Gas buddy app directed me to diesel stations but in at least 2 cases they were truck only and I had to leave and keep looking.

The photos earlier in this thread are my truck, only thing I added since was a "Diesel Fuel Only" decal so some idiot at a dealer or whatever wouldn't put the wrong fuel in.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here is what I am looking at when I get to the pump.

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Dunrollin, thank you so much for the info!! I have no problem with doing this to my truck (would prefer that it came in this state to begin with, and I am assuming that the complete fill assembly can be purchased and replaced if needed). Your decal is a great idea.

I completely follow your earlier post for removing the outer Green Plastic Ring and Flapper assembly. Was removing the white plastic and inner flapper just a grab with pliers and pull job??

Will call the Ford sales rep next week to confirm that, that part of the fill assembly has not changed with the 21 config (my memory is that it looks the same on the outside as in your original pictures).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@Ryker14750 The replacement for the fill assembly runs maybe $400 through a dealer. It consists of the entire hose from the green thing to the tank. Anyway, I am happy with the removal and don't plan to do anything to what I have now. Once the green collar is removed (and I still recommend the wire tie method of removal above) there is a black collar that comes out real easy. Then the hard part. Here is the next part to be removed and I have no tips on how to do it, as it is slow and destructive to the part. Care to make sure nothing falls into the tank!

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To be honest I can't remember the steps to removal, but I ended up sweating a lot. The white part looks OK but the other side of it doesn't.
 

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Converted mine about 2 months back. 2,000 miles (1200 towing) with no issues using the big boy pumps or others.

I purchased the following from Filler Neck (no association) and had a friend weld for me.

2.25" O.D. Diesel Filler Tube / Weld On Neck - 6.75" Tall - 2-1/4" OD / NJ1089D675
Standard Thread On Diesel Cap 31835D and Locking cap 31778D / 31778D


The factory pipe was much thinner than the add on and there was a small gap he had to fill so it seemed a little tedious to do without melting the OEM pipe.

This is not a how to or advise to do this. Just my experience..

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That is impressive! Great work and a good writeup. I have a couple of questions though. First, how did you remove the pipe? From the manual it appears you get to it from below. How difficult was that part of the job? Thanks for sharing and adding your information on this subject. @RRL24

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That is impressive! Great work and a good writeup. I have a couple of questions though. First, how did you remove the pipe? From the manual it appears you get to it from below. How difficult was that part of the job? Thanks for sharing and adding your information on this subject. @RRL24

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Thanks. It really wasn't too bad.

I removed the 6 bed bolts and raised the bed enough to place small 2X4 blocks between the frame and bed in the 4 corners. Lifting the aluminum bed was very easy from underneath, even by myself. I did have to watch clearance at the bumper closely. Once the bed was raised I was able to get to the hose clamps. The most difficult part was maneuvering the pipe assembly out....
 

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I would be interested in buying a good green original flapper cap if someone removed and has no use for it. I had to pry it off to remove a badly bent flapper due to wife accidentally pushing nozzle all the way it. Strangely, only the green cap came off, it separated from the black flapper part? I tried to pull the rest of it out and nothing, so I may try to remove all of it including white part later. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I would be interested in buying a good green original flapper cap if someone removed and has no use for it. I had to pry it off to remove a badly bent flapper due to wife accidentally pushing nozzle all the way it. Strangely, only the green cap came off, it separated from the black flapper part? I tried to pull the rest of it out and nothing, so I may try to remove all of it including white part later. Thanks
@mascrappo Check this out. P.m. me your address and will try to get them to you.
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As mentioned earlier it is fairly easy to get the green collar out using plastic wire ties to hold the hold downs open so you can pry it out, the black plastic thing just lifts out. I see a scratched place on the bottom of the collar. Oh well, no warranty!
 
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