Exactly what I did to mine to make it easy except that I added a 2 post lift. Pretty much spend more time getting the arms of the lift under it than working on the oil change 🤦🏻♂️
I frequent a John Deere forum - I own a compact diesel. That trick with the vacuum is suggested and used there quite often. Sometimes someone wants to change the hydraulic filter without changing the gallons of hydro oil. The filter is near the bottom of the sump. The vacuum trick works well for that also.before I changed the oil. I had my wife hold the wet/dry vacuum on the oil fill tube while I unscrewed the drain plug, screwed on the Fumoto and good to go, not a drop of oil came out. I had heard you could do this but i wasn't too sure.
My set-up is exactly like Dunrollin has with the Fumoto and a hole in the underbody panel. My philosophy on an underbody panel is that Ford won't spend money on an item unless it serves some purpose.The most annoying part of this job for me is dealing with the diaper. It seems that many people just take it off and leave it off. Next oil change I will either cut a hole like in the pictures above or just leave it in my garage.
The fumoto valve is definitely a good investment, and I think I have enough oil for maybe 3 more oil changes. Hopefully the Rotella T6 will be more available by then…
My experience during the winter of 2020-2021 was the truck had no problems starting at -18F with Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic.I am concerned about what I will be doing this winter, as there are only five approved 0W-40 oils on the list and Rotella T6 is one of them.
I'm not identifying a technical reason for loosening the oil filter housing prior to draining oil from the oil pan. Either order would seem to work. If there's a vacuum with draining the oil, the oil fill cap can be removed.With my 2.7l Ecoboost there is a certain procedure to follow. Before draining the oil you are supposed to first remove the filter cartridge. Or at the very least loosen it enough to allow air in so as not to create a vacuum when the oil drains.
Should this procedure be followed with the 3.0l also?
I agree that Rotella will have no problem when starting a vehicle at -20F. Ford only specifies 0W-40 below -20 deg F. I run Rotella T6 5W-40 in my Duramax. When you get down around -35F - -45F, the truck will still start without being plugged in, but the first 5 seconds of running sounds like there in no oil in the engine at all. A block heater helps, but it's not always an option. I'll be driving the F-150 home next month and will see what I can track down when I cross through the Yukon. Canadians seem to have a better supply chain for cold weather oil than Alaskans. Most of the chain stores in Alaska seem to stock whatever is for sale in Seattle.My experience during the winter of 2020-2021 was the truck had no problems starting at -18F with Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic.
I too have the Fumoto oil drain valve installed on my truck, and our 3 other vehicles. Installing a Fumoto drain valve is part of the first oil change after acquiring a vehicle.
I have replaced the Ford underbody panel with a Carhart Customs metal underbody panel. It's more of a pain to remove and replace than the OEM panel, but much more durable. I'm thinking of cutting a hole in the metal panel similar to @Dunrollin's, or perhaps creating a small removable panel in the metal underbody panel.
OK - this brings another question....Do note, I've not thought this through previously. And, I just educated myself as to a better procedure for oil changes for vehicles with the oil filter accessed from the top of the engine. For almost 50 years, I've always drained the oil and then removed the oil filter. There's a better way with these diesels.
OK then - top side oil changes are out.@fossilburner - this has been attempted/discussed a few times by other owners here on the forums:
Lots of info out here on the forums, so I suggest using the Search Community field in the top-center of every page to search for topics of interest.