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So, I finally got my 2018 to the dealer for the latest EGR recall. I, like others have posted did not get a call when the part was in. Dropped the truck last evening. About 10:30 am I get a call that things are not going well, and it’s going to take longer than they thought. Not going to get it done before noon. Get another call at 2:30 pm major problems, the tech cross threaded some of the bolts and now has to pull it all apart again and tap out the damaged threads. Tells me it might be several days now?? And all of a sudden they have a loaner for me that they absolutely didn’t have before according to them.
Anyway, I would like some advice on a next step to address this issue with the dealer. First problem is that after rethreading the bolt holes, the bolts will not hold as well because of the additional metal removed when rethreading, and I don’t know if that could be a problem down the road.
Second, will the rethreading possibly introduce fine metal shavings to the engine that could damage it?
Any advice would be helpful. Thanks
P S engine only has 26000 on it
P S S. Old part is intact.
 

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First, the good news. They seem like they are being open and honest, that is at least a start.

I would think that if they do the rethreading with helicoils they can have it equal or better than before.
 

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Thanks for the input.
My problem is that we used to use helicoils a lot at a plant i used to work in, and have seen them fail many times. So i don't share your confidence in them. They work fine for holding parts together where there is no torque or pressures involved, Other than just holding 2 parts together you would be taking too much of a risk of failure at the most inopportune moment. So I guess my question is. How much pressure is put on the egr ? If it's minimal then that would be ok.
 

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I have seen many Triton 5.4’s and V-10’s that would blow out spark plugs and the common fix for them is helicoils. They seem to hold up well under that pressure. I don’t know for sure, but I would think there is less pressure on the EGR.
 
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I have seen many Triton 5.4’s and V-10’s that would blow out spark plugs and the common fix for them is helicoils. They seem to hold up well under that pressure. I don’t know for sure, but I would think there is less pressure on the EGR.
Not much pressure in the EGR at all, it will only be a psi or two above you boost pressure, so like 20 - 30 psi ish. Pressures in the cylinders on a gas engine are in the 300 to 1000 PSI range.
 

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Thanks again
I guess my main concern now will be witch parts need tapped out. If they install helicoils they will have to drill the holes out larger to cut threads for the helicoils. This would most likely result in the water jacket or oil channels being penetrated depending upon witch parts are being drilled. That in my mind would not be satisfactory! The water jacket would show immediately as antifreeze would run out. The oil channels are not going to show as readily. And there is always the possibility they hit both in the same hole. Anyway I’m still of the mindset that any part that needs tapped is compromised and should be replaced with new parts!
 

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Curious if anyone has had this work done in the Atlanta area? Normally I use Marshall Ford in O'Fallon, Missouri but will be in Atlanta for a bit and thinking it might just be easiest to sort it here. Marshall (fwiw) has done great work so far on my 2018.
 

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atlbob, considering it appears to take most dealer mechanics quite a bit longer to do the recall then Ford provides labor hours, suggest having the recall done at a dealer that values your business, and has demonstrated competence with these diesel engines.
 

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Sorry , didn't have a chance to get back sooner.
the work was completed on Monday, Turns out only one bolt had been cross threaded, not multiple bolts as I was told. It was not a bolt that went into or was part of a critical component. They also did some updates to the computer as part of the recall work.
The truck runs fine and everything is where it should be .

Thanks again to everyone for their help and support
Mike
 

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atlbob, considering it appears to take most dealer mechanics quite a bit longer to do the recall then Ford provides labor hours, suggest having the recall done at a dealer that values your business, and has demonstrated competence with these diesel engines.
Alas, were but it so. those types of dealers are getting to be fewer and fewer. I think the days of the trusted local dealer are all but done in the US. They have been mostly brushed aside to make room for the BIG corporate dealers that mostly turn a blind eye toward the customers plight. One such dealer close to me has completely done away with curtesy vehicles. I found this out the hard way when I took a Mustang I purchased from them for recall work. They also have done away with appointments, you can't wait on your vehicle because they can't tell you when they will get to it! hence the need for a curtesy vehicle!
 

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Alas, were but it so. those types of dealers are getting to be fewer and fewer. I think the days of the trusted local dealer are all but done in the US. They have been mostly brushed aside to make room for the BIG corporate dealers that mostly turn a blind eye toward the customers plight. One such dealer close to me has completely done away with curtesy vehicles. I found this out the hard way when I took a Mustang I purchased from them for recall work. They also have done away with appointments, you can't wait on your vehicle because they can't tell you when they will get to it! hence the need for a curtesy vehicle!
I ended up going with Jim Ellis in Roswell, GA. Their rep is pretty good here, but we will see. I asked them if they had done this work before, and the guy was pretty good -- said they had been through a few of them and to plan for 2 days without the vehicle. Interestingly, they are keeping the truck for 24 hours to inspect and see if they actually need to do the replacement work. I get that an FSA is different from a recall, but now I'm wondering -- has anyone else "not" had the work done and simply been waved off with an inspection?
 

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Interestingly, they are keeping the truck for 24 hours to inspect and see if they actually need to do the replacement work. I get that an FSA is different from a recall, but now I'm wondering -- has anyone else "not" had the work done and simply been waved off with an inspection?
  • First EGR By-Pass valve was initially announced as FSA 18E02
    • Was listed as FSA 18E02 in FordPass App (that is where I found out about it first)
    • 20E04 Dealer letter does reference RECALL 18E02 though now
  • This go around is RECALL 20E04 according to the dealer and owner letters
    • No mention of inspection in 20E04 Dealer letter
    • 20E04 Dealer letter makes is pretty clear to replace with JL3Z-9U433-"B" part
      • Shaft can fail at anytime, so inspection now does not prevent failure in future
  • Chalk this up to dealers fabricating BS regarding what corrective action needs to be taken
Challenge them with the text from the Dealer 20E04 letter
 

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Have to agree strongly with jmperlik on that.
Since it would not be possible to do a visual inspection of the EGR without taking it apart anyway, why would you not at that point have the new part installed??? Although at this point you have to wonder about the new part also. At least if the new part fails, it’s the manufacturers dime to fix it. I know that’s not much comfort, but it’s all you got at this point. Once you agree to a wave off on the replacement of the EGR you are agreeing to take your chances. At that point it may fall to you for costs of repairs if the recalled part fails. From what I understand these engines are not cheap, plus labor, you’ll have to take out a personal loan for repairs.
I looked at the repair order for the EGR replacement. That alone was over $1400.00 dollars. I could imagine engine replacement would be pushing $10,000.00 or more.
 

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Have to agree strongly with jmperlik on that.
Since it would not be possible to do a visual inspection of the EGR without taking it apart anyway, why would you not at that point have the new part installed??? Although at this point you have to wonder about the new part also. At least if the new part fails, it’s the manufacturers dime to fix it. I know that’s not much comfort, but it’s all you got at this point. Once you agree to a wave off on the replacement of the EGR you are agreeing to take your chances. At that point it may fall to you for costs of repairs if the recalled part fails. From what I understand these engines are not cheap, plus labor, you’ll have to take out a personal loan for repairs.
I looked at the repair order for the EGR replacement. That alone was over $1400.00 dollars. I could imagine engine replacement would be pushing $10,000.00 or more.
Well -- the dealer did the work, so I have no idea what the "inspection" was all about. They got the part in 24 hours, and it took about 2 days to do the work. No complaints-- all seems good so far, and without me asking, they went ahead and took care of the 19N06 door latch issue. I thought it was a strange comment as well -- you've got to tear the whole thing apart anyway to do an "inspection" -- but I'm glad they didn't try and come back with a wave off.
 

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Here we go again. My 2019 F150 was in the shop last spring for 3 weeks + waiting for a replacement EGR valve. So when the recall/TSA popped up I asked the dealership I was using to verify if, in fact, my truck needed the work called for in the 20E04 notice. "Yep." That was in November. After a run down to FL I checked the dealer again. "Parts are on order. Should be here any day." That was in December. Now back in VA I started calling on them 3 weeks ago. After a number of non-returned calls I finally got an appointment for the work. I asked the service rep to verify that the parts were in fact on hand as they had burned me before with incomplete work or by not having parts after my 1 hour drive to the dealer. You guessed it. After leaving the truck and reminding the service rep that we had a trip planned for Friday I got a call late TH afternoon that the parts received "did not fit" and new parts would be in on Friday. After a rather heated exchange with the service mgr they provided a loaner. But that means the wife will have to drive her smaller Pilot with our dogs crammed in while truck sits in the service bay and I'm driving a POS rental car.
Maybe its Ford. Maybe it's just this dealer. But as much as I like the truck, when it's running, I'd never recommend it and would advise strongly against dealing with this particular dealer. No names, but it's located in Charlottesville, VA.
 

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It is hard to believe Ford got this so wrong. A few people on this site have had issues other than EGR but very few. These trucks are amazingly solid except for one part and they can't seem to get it right. Talking to Ford mechanics it is torture to remove an EGR cooler but it is what it is.

Hopefully these issues will be in the rear view mirror soon. I hope your truck is home as quickly as possible.
 
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Had my EGR replaced last week. So far nothing out of the ordinary. It took the dealer 9 hrs to replace (they kept it overnight to check for leaks). The invoice had noted extra time for 6 twisted off bolts, nod nod wink wink.
 
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FYI, my truck has developed a coolant leak at the EGR. Took it in and the dealership admits that it was caused by the two recalls (that’s the good news). They ordered the part and it’s been 3 weeks. Part is still on back order with no time frame when it’ll be in. I’ve looked up similar problems on the bigger powerstroke diesel and it looks to be an oring. Can’t use the truck and I refuse to give it to them so they can put it outside so that it can possibly get hailed on. You’d think that since it’s warmer that the oring would swell and stop/slow down the leak. Seems to be just the opposite. I’ve been using it for short trips while keeping an eye on the antifreeze.
 

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@Dijit at least you are part of the way. There are only two coolant connections to the EGR cooler, the top one is a simple rubber hose with an old school clamp which goes into a curved metal pipe on top of the cooler. I doubt your leak is there.

The second one is more complex. I got a few photos of one of these and here is what I see. Going into the side of the EGR cooler is a metal pipe with a rubber O ring to seal it. It is held tight by a small bolt.

2294


(Not sure if this is the first generation EGR Valve or the second- there may be a difference)

Once the coolant enters the tube it takes a 90 degree turn into a fitting that seems to be pressed in using a rubber sleeve to seal in the coolant.

2295


Finally the coolant re-enters the block way down behing another coolant tube in a fitting with yet another O ring. Again this is held tight with a bolt. As you can see there are lots of opportunities for leaks. I am told there is enough difficulty removing and re-installing the EGR that these connections are moved quite a bit. Hope yours is fixed soon.

2296
 
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@Dunrollin, it appears it’s coming out of the bell looking connection (not the bolted one) in the 2nd pic. But, I could be wrong. It could be seaping out of the bolted portion and leaking down. Thanks so much for images. I’ve been searching the internet trying to something. It’s tempting to put some Bars Leaks in it but I‘ll give them a few more days.
 
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