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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I came across this Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 engine rebuild series and I thought it was worth sharing. It shows the whole process from removing the engine, and rebuilding nearly every component. There are about 15 parts in total. Should be a good resource for those doing their own work. Part 9 shows how to time the engine. Enjoy.

Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 engine part 1. Body removal. - YouTube
Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Engine part 2 - YouTube
Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Engine Part 2a. Engine removal. - YouTube
Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Engine Part 3 | Damage Report - YouTube
Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Engine part 4 | Is the new engine any good? - YouTube
Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Engine Part 5 | Strip down. - YouTube
Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Engine | Update and a little teaser. - YouTube
Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Engine Part 6 | Rebuild time - YouTube
Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Engine Part 7 | Bolting more stuff on - YouTube
Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Engine Part 8 | 1 Step Forwards 2 Steps Back. - YouTube
Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Engine Part 9 | Cam Timing & Final Assembly. - YouTube
Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Engine Part 10 | Engine goes in at last! - YouTube
Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Engine Part 11 | Body goes back on. - YouTube
Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Engine Part 12 | Will it run? - YouTube
Range Rover Sport Engine Part 13 | Fixing Problems. - YouTube
Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Engine Part 14 | going back together for a second time - YouTube
Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Engine Part 15 | The Road Test - YouTube
Range Rover Sport Engine Rebuild Series Outtakes - YouTube
 

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Great find! Now I have to binge watch each episode. I took a minute to watch the teardown and he is speculating an injector failed and tossed the piston. I guess the injector failed open and leaked fuel causing a hydro?

I remain impressed with how this engine is built- 6 bolts on each main bearing cap! Oil coolers on each piston and so on. I can't believe he doesn't use an engine stand.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
He kinda pieces together two engines from the looks of it. The first one had a crank shaft go (good thing we have a re-engineered forged one). They bought a used engine that they were going to replace it with, they were told it was good but it had no compression in one cylinder, they tore it down and looks like the piston was melted. They speculated someone overfilled it with oil which got into the cylinder and ran away.... looks like they ended up re-boring that block slightly larger and rebuilt it. Either way it's cool to get a good look inside. There's a good teardown video of the transmission here too

Complete 10r80 Teardown at Power by the hour - YouTube
 

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@Laytunes, watching episode 12 where he first starts the rebuilt engine I note he primes the oil through the filter opening. It looks very similar to our engine filter housing, and it is easy to spot the little rubber stopper some of us have an issue with. I am betting someone, either here or in Europe, has figured out a solution for this issue.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@Laytunes, watching episode 12 where he first starts the rebuilt engine I note he primes the oil through the filter opening. It looks very similar to our engine filter housing, and it is easy to spot the little rubber stopper some of us have an issue with. I am betting someone, either here or in Europe, has figured out a solution for this issue.
Good find, yeah it can't be a new thing with these being around for so long, the unit itself looks identical to ours. I wonder if it's worth priming the filter that way every time to get oil flowing more quickly after a change. I will definitely be keeping an eye on my stopper going forward.
 

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Update on the oil filter spring, the flat metal piece I was calling a bracket. It is clearly shown in the photo above and reposted below. Anyway, if one wanted to you can carefully pry it up and lift it out of the filter housing. The hole the rubber stopper is covering is actually quite small, probably about 1/4". Now, if someone just made the rubber stopper this would be an easy repair.

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after removing this metal spring it goes back easy if you gently tap down the "X" cutout so it is held in place as original.
 
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