[Dunrollin]

@Kval again thank you! This solves a serious issue.

Next week when you go back to work, maybe you can post the assembly number? I see what I think it is on Tasca but I am not sure. Also a comment on the time involved. As you know I can go to a dealer but long story short that involves about an hour trip for me and then I still would have to convince them to replace it. Thanks

 

[Kval]

@Kval again thank you! This solves a serious issue.

Next week when you go back to work, maybe you can post the assembly number? I see what I think it is on Tasca but I am not sure. Also a comment on the time involved. As you know I can go to a dealer but long story short that involves about an hour trip for me and then I still would have to convince them to replace it. Thanks

Hey @Dunrollin, when you say assembly number, do you mean part number for the cooler? And yes be sure to comment on the time. One thing i know, its not a 1/2 hour job. Theres alot of parts you would have to remove to replace the cooler. Such as the LH valve cover, injectors, fuel lines and egr cooler, etc. Ill keep everyone posted.

 

[Dunrollin]

That sounds like a lot of fun. The hillbilly in me says this may be a gorilla glue fix.
I think for the time being I will sit and watch.

 

[jmperlik]

For what seems to be a $0.25 piece of rubber... Ford needs to come up with a field solution for this issue besides replacing the entire oil cooler assembly and everything @Kval indicates needs to be removed in order to get to the oil cooler = this has to be at least a 3-4 hour job also...

If this rubber stopper is failing this soon (less 3yr/36K warranty into vehicle ownership) then everyone will hit this issue eventually = I don't want to know how much the RO was for the oil cooler assembly replacement @Kval did, once your 5 yr/100K engine warranty expires.

If they don't want to add a barb or clip (for fear of that getting pulled into oil side of engine) then they need to drill the hole in the brass plate to a larger diameter and stick a rubber stopper with a larger diameter neck on the mushroom top of the stopper that won't fail so easily.

Ford must have redesigned this part on the F150, as I don't see how this could not have been an issue on the JLRs. Who is the forum member that has both a F150 PS Diesel and a LandRover Discovery with the same 3.0L V6 engine? Maybe that forum member can check his LandRover to see if it has this same rubber stopper/brass bracket design in the oil cooler assembly where the oil filter cup screws into?

 

[Laytunes]

The moral of the story is don't stick your hand in there and muck about. Just pull the oil filter up, and screw a new one down. if you do that, you should never have an issue. Unfortunately some folks probably try to wipe the inside out, in which case you likely run the risk of ripping the nipple off and losing the plug. I would say ford should just have a tool to reach down there and replace it rather than throwing a whole new assembly on. Seems to me like some fine angled pliers, with a rod to hold the spring down as you install it, would probably do the trick. Problem is they probably don't sell just the little plug..

 

[Kval]

Here is proper procedure according to the workshop manual. I know it looks easy and ask why am i even posting this but i know some people usually install the oil filer into the cap then install the cap. This causes the filter to twist with the cap which may or may not wear the top of the plug (not really sure but i guess that might happen). Instructions say to install the filter then install the cap with a new oring and lubricated. This may prevent this issue from happening?

 

[Dunrollin]

Bet that is my issue for sure. I never read those instructions LOL. I put the filter in the housing then screwed it on. Sounds like an expensive error.

I bet a lot of guys who go to Jiffy Lube and such will learn this the hard way as well. If we had the little rubber fitting with a barb on it I guarantee it would take no more than 5 minutes to install.

ETA: I know I did read the instructions at first as I knew the torque spec, guess I forgot the insert part.

2nd edit: When you unscrew the housing the filter unscrews as well I think.

 

[Laytunes]

****... I did that too! well there ya go. Will definitely be checking mine next time it comes out!

 

[jmperlik]

Here is proper procedure according to the workshop manual. I know it looks easy and ask why am i even posting this but i know some people usually install the oil filer into the cap then install the cap. This causes the filter to twist with the cap which may or may not wear the top of the plug (not really sure but i guess that might happen). Instructions say to install the filter then install the cap with a new O-ring and lubricated. This may prevent this issue from happening?

THIS is what I was alluding to in my earlier post regarding DIYers (or anyone else not following the manual) oil changes; i.e. is there something procedural that the installer is doing that could be causing this rubber stopper to tear prematurely...

My dealership handles my oil changes and I will be printing out these diagrams for every future oil change, because as @Dunrollin mentioned, the oil change jockeys are usually the lowest man on-the-totem-pole who is not necessarily a Ford-certified tech, let alone a Ford-certified diesel tech. I'll admit I would click the filter into the cup if I were to every attempt to do this = anyone could make this mistake, so not passing judgement on anyone but just trying to figure out how this is happening.

Ford should update the F150 Owners Guide with the diagrams and procedure from the shop manual, as Ford has to expect that some percentage of owners will perform their own oil changes. Changing your oil is an American as "Built Ford Tough" = they should know better. I fear they may decline warranty claims (user error) to fix this once they ask who handles your oil changes. This is an example of why I went the ESP route, as Ford is the only one who wrenches on my vehicle, so they can't blame me for something like this.

Great collaborative effort by forum members here to get to the bottom of this long-standing issue. Many thanks to @Kval and @Dunrollin for photo-documenting everything = the owner-contributed technical content on these forums never ceases to amaze me!

 

[thegert87]

This seems like an issue from poor engineering... :/

When working properly, what should the oil pressure be? 15 psi seems low...?

What are the oil PSI ranges @Kval?

 

[Kval]

This seems like an issue from poor engineering... :/

When working properly, what should the oil pressure be? 15 psi seems low...?

What are the oil PSI ranges @Kval?

Min 14.5psi @1500 rpm. But im pretty sure there was a spec for @ idle? But i cant find it amymore. I believe its 10psi?

 

[thegert87]

Bet that is my issue for sure. I never read those instructions LOL. I put the filter in the housing then screwed it on. Sounds like an expensive error.

I bet a lot of guys who go to Jiffy Lube and such will learn this the hard way as well. If we had the little rubber fitting with a barb on it I guarantee it would take no more than 5 minutes to install.

ETA: I know I did read the instructions at first as I knew the torque spec, guess I forgot the insert part.

2nd edit: When you unscrew the housing the filter unscrews as well I think.

Think you'll try to fix it or take it to the dealer?

 

[Dunrollin]

Think you'll try to fix it or take it to the dealer?

Probably add it to the list for the dealer when it goes in for recall. Clint Eastwood once said “A good man knows his limitations”. Interestingly I saw a DIY video of a guy showing how to change oil on his F150 diesel and sure enough he put the filter into the cap first. He next noted the filter should be flush with the edge of the cap then add the “O” ring, lubricate it and screw it on.

 

[wreedsvt]

Pardon my ignorance, but which one of kvals pictures is of a good/correct oil filter assembly? I cant seem to see the rubber grommet installed correctly in any of the pics.

 

[Dunrollin]

No problem, Will. It is hard to see as it is covered by the metal bracket but it is there. You can see it in the white circle here. The black is it.

If it is as shown above it is correct.
The tiny white spec in the center of the white circle is the rubber popping through the metal bracket that keeps the rubber stopper in place. If something happens to remove that tiny rubber "tail" the stopper can dislodge and go anywhere it wants. Screwing on the filter does just that, as does wiping with a rag. Once the stopper is dislodged low oil pressure can occur, the filter will drain every time the engine stops and so on. Plus, who knows where the stopper might end up, especially if it can get down the drain hole.

 

[thegert87]

Long term, I'd be concerned about a reduction in oil filtration. Along with that plug making its way into somewhere it shouldn't.

It looks as if a small nut and bolt would be a potential fix, secured with thread locker. I don't think I'd do it, just thinking.

 

[Laytunes]

I'd be concerned about a reduction in oil filtration. Along with that plug making its way into somewhere it shouldn't.

It looks as if a small nut and bolt would be a potential fix, secured with thread locker. I don't think I'd do it, just t

I wouldn't worry that much, if the nub breaks off, it's on the pre-filtration side, so it wouldn't be able to make it's way back into the engine as it would be caught by the filter. I would be less worried about a rubber plug than a bolt that's for sure.

 

[mascrappo]

So it might be a good idea to coat the bottom of the oil filter with clean oil as well so it slides easily over the rubber plug? I like this new technique and makes me wonder, since the old filter is slippery with oil, is it the new dry filter that rips the plug out when it turns? As we all know the housing holds filter tightly, housing has to turn the filter during install? If so, I will be putting a dab of fresh oil on the filter as well the o-ring. Thoughts?

 

[Laytunes]

So it might be a good idea to coat the bottom of the oil filter with clean oil as well so it slides easily over the rubber plug? I like this new technique and makes me wonder, since the old filter is slippery with oil, is it the new dry filter that rips the plug out when it turns? As we all know the housing holds filter tightly, housing has to turn the filter during install? If so, I will be putting a dab of fresh oil on the filter as well the o-ring. Thoughts?

Definitely won't hurt, even if you drop the filter in first, there may be a chance for it to spin when you get close to the bottom, albeit not as much. A little extra lube never hurt anybody.

 

[jmperlik]

So it might be a good idea to coat the bottom of the oil filter with clean oil as well so it slides easily over the rubber plug? I like this new technique and makes me wonder, since the old filter is slippery with oil, is it the new dry filter that rips the plug out when it turns? As we all know the housing holds filter tightly, housing has to turn the filter during install? If so, I will be putting a dab of fresh oil on the filter as well the o-ring. Thoughts?

I'd be adding more than a "dab" of fresh oil, but making sure that lower seal on the oil filter element is covered with fresh oil before dropping the new filter into the oil cooler assembly -- might be a little messy but worth it to "save the nub!"

Heck, I might even put a dab of grease on the nub in addition to the fresh oil on the oil filter seal. Anything to reduce the dry rubber-on-dry rubber friction for that split second where the filter is being pressed against that circular brass bracket that the rubber stopper is mounted into...

#SaveTheNub!