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I have another filter, I might just have to look inside and see if the plug is still there! Yep, I concur, the filter has turn (definitely not as much as the old way) when tightening the housing. The filter ends are not smooth, and I can see where a dry one would damage that flimsy rubber. I will be lubing the bottom (maybe inside the top hole of the filter too?) from now on.
 

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I'd be adding more than a "dab" of fresh oil, but making sure that lower seal on the oil filter element is covered with fresh oil before dropping the new filter into the oil cooler assembly -- might be a little messy but worth it to "save the nub!"

Heck, I might even put a dab of grease on the nub in addition to the fresh oil on the oil filter seal. Anything to reduce the dry rubber-on-dry rubber friction for that split second where the filter is being pressed against that circular brass bracket that the rubber stopper is mounted into...

#SaveTheNub!
#SaveTheNub! is now trending on the Diesel F150 Forums. Snub the rub. lubricate.
 

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I found this thread interesting. I have a ‘04 6.0 Powerstroke that has a similar designed oil filter housing and cartridge filter. I have never looked that closely in the housing with the filter out, but I would imagine it would have something similar because when you take the cap off, the oil filter is snapped in the cap and the oil in the housing drains back to the pan. I have always snapped the new filter into the cap, then screwed the cap on when I do my oil changes. As far as I know I there hasn’t been any problems. I do know that it is very important to use only Motorcraft filters in 6.0’s because some of the aftermarket filters aren’t long enough to make sure the drain back valve gets properly closed when the filter and cap are installed. Maybe Ford “cheapened” up the drain back valve in these 3.0’s compared to the 6.0 and 6.4’s?
 

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I found this thread interesting. I have a ‘04 6.0 Powerstroke that has a similar designed oil filter housing and cartridge filter. I have never looked that closely in the housing with the filter out, but I would imagine it would have something similar because when you take the cap off, the oil filter is snapped in the cap and the oil in the housing drains back to the pan. I have always snapped the new filter into the cap, then screwed the cap on when I do my oil changes. As far as I know I there hasn’t been any problems. I do know that it is very important to use only Motorcraft filters in 6.0’s because some of the aftermarket filters aren’t long enough to make sure the drain back valve gets properly closed when the filter and cap are installed. Maybe Ford “cheapened” up the drain back valve in these 3.0’s compared to the 6.0 and 6.4’s?
Its the same basic design, but obviously two very different engines with different manufacturers (international vs ford). I used to have a 6.0 as well. You're right, bad things did happen when not using motorcraft filters due to the size. The procedure on both is the same though, insert the filter into the housing, and then screw the cap down. I wouldn't say it's cheapened at all, after all it's just a spring and a plug; just have to make sure to use the proper procedure to not knock the plug off the spring. So far this engine has been far more reliable and easy to maintain than my 6.0.
 

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I did my 2nd oil change about 3 weeks ago. Used the factory 5w-30 oil and motorcraft filter. The day I changed it I had the message pop up a couple of times of low oil pressure. I checked the cap on the filter to make sure it was tight and snugged it up a little further and the message went away and didn't see it again. Now today it happened 5 times on the way to work. Usually just for a second and by the time you could hit the "OK" button it was gone. One time sitting at a red light it lasted for a few seconds to the point I was getting a little bit of panic. Any ideas what to look for??
I just purchased a 2018 F150 with the 3.0L Power Stroke diesel; the previous owner barely put 15k miles on it. I immediately noticed several "Low Oil Pressure" alerts within the first few weeks of driving it... the dealership I bought it from (a Toyota dealership) swore up and down that they had changed the oil as soon as they took it as a trade-in. After doing some research, I discovered that the 3.0L Power Stroke requires a special oil that is formulated specifically for Ford's small block diesel engines. I'm sure that the Toyota dealership (which doesn't even sell diesel engines in the US market) simply put standard 5W-30 in it and called it a day. When I took it to the Ford dealership for an oil change, 2 of their 3 service advisors behind the counter weren't even aware the F150 had a diesel engine and were planning to give me basic 5W-30 as well! The 1 service advisor who was familiar with the engine said YOU CANNOT USE generic oil intended for their gas engines, and you can't use the oil meant for the larger 6.7L Super Duty engines. Long story short, this is a new-ish motor that people aren't familiar with and human error is likely causing most of these oil pressure alarms. I can't guarantee sensors and pumps aren't issues for some of you, but I can tell you that I haven't had another "Low Oil Pressure" alert since...

Ford's part no. for the F150 motor oil is XO-5W30-QFA. Before you go down the rabbit hole, make sure you're using the right oil.

2245
 

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Welcome @ATBandit great to have you aboard. You did your homework and have solved the problem but a few comments. First, several of us have had shops put the wrong oil in, so your advise is valuable here. Second, a Ford mechanic pointed out an issue wherein if a filter is mounted incorrectly it will break off the plug for the internal drain in the filter housing, almost assuring the "Low Oil Pressure" warnings. This happened with me (a do it yourselfer) and I finally took the plug mount out and did a repair to it, stopping the warnings. So far anyway.

Also several of us use the severe duty provision of Ford's recommendations and have switched to 5W-40 Rotella T6 or equal. There is a lot of discussion on this change here as well. Lots to read about! Again, welcome and thanks for the input! Enjoy your new truck.
 

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The 1 service advisor who was familiar with the engine said YOU CANNOT USE generic oil intended for their gas engines, and you can't use the oil meant for the larger 6.7L Super Duty engines.
Just an FYI you can absolutely use the 6.7 diesel oil in this engine, what you can't do is use the standard FA-4 oil for this engine in the 6.7. CK-4 oil, like what is used in the 6.7 (WSS-M2C171-F1), is specified in the manual and recommended for severe duty service, or where biodiesel, or extreme temperatures are encountered. Oh and never should you add gasoline oil to a diesel. big no-no. Who knows what toyota used, but I would change it just so you know. Also check your little nub (as described above) while you're in there to make sure the rubber valve is in place.
 

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Just an FYI you can absolutely use the 6.7 diesel oil in this engine, what you can't do is use the standard FA-4 oil for this engine in the 6.7. CK-4 oil, like what is used in the 6.7 (WSS-M2C171-F1), is specified in the manual and recommended for severe duty service, or where biodiesel, or extreme temperatures are encountered. Oh and never should you add gasoline oil to a diesel. big no-no. Who knows what toyota used, but I would change it just so you know. Also check your little nub (as described above) while you're in there to make sure the rubber valve is in place.
I had my local dealer change it that day, haven't gotten another alert since new was oil was put in.
 

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Hey guys, im a Ford Diesel tech and I have came across this issue before. I have replaced the oil pressure switch, checked wiring and all seemed to be ok. Until i noticed the rubber seal that sits under the oil filter, inside the oil filter housing. It most likely broke off when installing the oil filter from a previous oil change. The only way to repair this was to replace the oil cooler housing. Again the time it acted up was after an extended drive and when its at a complete stop. Here are some pictures of the concern:
View attachment 2027

View attachment 2028
Would the filter rub on the rubber nob that holds it the rubber piece in place? If so, this is a design flow. I changed my oil and found that the rubber piece had moved, I gently pushed it back under the spot it should be and as of now, I have not gotten the low oil pressure warning. However, I also change to the Rotella T6 5W-30, so I'm not sure yet if the oil or me re-positioning the the rubber is was the fix.
 

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Would the filter rub on the rubber nob that holds it the rubber piece in place? If so, this is a design flow. I changed my oil and found that the rubber piece had moved, I gently pushed it back under the spot it should be and as of now, I have not gotten the low oil pressure warning. However, I also change to the Rotella T6 5W-30, so I'm not sure yet if the oil or me re-positioning the the rubber is was the fix.
Yes the same thing happened to me .I went with the rotella also ,but I’m trying to get some answers why I only get 3000 mile on the oil change . I plankton have 17k and I change the oil 5 times . I’m looking for any help . the dealer is telling me it’s the break in period.
 

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Yes the same thing happened to me. I went with the Rotella also, but I’m trying to get some answers why I only get 3000 mile on the oil change. I plankton have 17k and I change the oil 5 times. I’m looking for any help. The dealer is telling me it’s the break in period.
@Sheetmetal Man - going to fathom a guess that you are doing primarily short duration trips around town?

I would start with this thread for an explanation to your 3K oil change intervals: 2018 F150 first diesel oil replace/change

Bottom line: #1 contributor to short oil change intervals is driving style or what I like to call:
You probably didn't know about Active Regens for city driving when you bought your F150 PSD Diesel
 
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