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Thinking about installation of the oil filter a bit more, I thought I recalled that the oil filter could rotate within the plastic cup. I retrieved my spare oil filter cup, and sure enough, the center part of the plastic oil filter cup rotates relatively easily. And that's on my new, not oily, plastic filter cup.
With this in mind, I'm guessing the oil filter media, when installed into the engine and pushed down onto the shoulder of aluminum center post (following the Ford procedures), is not likely to rotate at all when the plastic filter cup is screwed down.

But, how does this play out on filter removal . . . might the filter media not rotate as the plastic cup is unscrewed until the latter part of the unscrewing??

Hmmmm . . . .
 

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Your drawing is spot on. When I change the oil, the filter is jammed pretty tight into the cap (Top part) to the point I have to take pliers or some other tool to remove the filter from its housing.

Back when I first started changing oil in this truck I inserted the filter into the cap, put a new o ring on, lubed the o ring and screwed the filter into place. After just a few changes my stopper was off and lying in the bottom of the housing. I now know that method doesn't work. Looking back I am sure the dry filter bottom was very hard on the stopper. Just applying a good coat of oil on the filter bottom would probably be adequate regardless of whether you put the filter in the cap or the housing but I now always follow Ford's procedure.

The only way to read oil pressure that I know of is via a gauge, not the dashboard "idiot gauge". I installed a separate mechanical gauge just for this purpose.
Before you found your stopper laying in the bottom of the housing, were you getting low oil pressure indications?
 

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Before you found your stopper laying in the bottom of the housing, were you getting low oil pressure indications?
@apezz yes but infrequently. I first changed out the sender but that didn’t help. I went to the 5w40 and that almost eliminated it. That is when I added the pressure gauge. Finally kval told us just what the issue was.
 

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No problem, Will. It is hard to see as it is covered by the metal bracket but it is there. You can see it in the white circle here. The black is it. View attachment 2074
If it is as shown above it is correct.
The tiny white spec in the center of the white circle is the rubber popping through the metal bracket that keeps the rubber stopper in place. If something happens to remove that tiny rubber "tail" the stopper can dislodge and go anywhere it wants. Screwing on the filter does just that, as does wiping with a rag. Once the stopper is dislodged low oil pressure can occur, the filter will drain every time the engine stops and so on. Plus, who knows where the stopper might end up, especially if it can get down the drain hole.
I literally just changed my oil last week....

Put 0w40 T6 in for Dec,Jan, Feb as its usually minus 30 or below sometimes.

I had no idea about this procedure.

I have NEVER liked engines with cartridge filters....and this really boils my blood that a 10k motor can be taken out by a 10 cent piece of rubber.

I never had any oil pressure warnings, luckily.

But I pulled into garage and popped off filter and luckily my nib/tit is still in place.

I stuck filter back in.

Whew....

I was fortunate to read this thread!

I will make sure to ask service tech IF they know the procedure as I get every second oil change done at dealer.
 

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So believe it or not my 2018 PS finally went in last Monday for the oil cooler repair/exchange from the dealer damaging the "nub" LAST May... The truck is still in the shop as the tech found a small oil leak from what they are saying was a crack in the valve cover! So that's a disturbing development, how would that happen?? At 35,800 miles I just purchased 7yr/100K ESP.
 

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Furthermore, the day before Xmas I was driving and I just happened to look at the gauges and I watched the Trans temp gauge go from 12 o'clock position as normal when warm to zero... I was literally one block from the Ford dealer I quickly drove to the dealership but ofcourse they were closed. Since then this gauge is very, very slow to get to normal range. I mentioned this to the service advisor and ofcourse they give you that incredulous look like your stupid or something. We'll see if they find anything or my guess they probably will ignore it..
 

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No ideas that can help but did you do the dash modification with forscan that lets you see the actual temperature of the engine and transmission? That might help in the troubleshooting. Hope they can get you up and running real quick.
 

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So,

To be safe when I goto my dealer (I get them to do every 2nd oil change).... I am going to print off Fords oil filter change instructions and make sure the Tech thats actually doing the oil changes is made aware of this issue.
 

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So,

To be safe when I goto my dealer (I get them to do every 2nd oil change).... I am going to print off Fords oil filter change instructions and make sure the Tech thats actually doing the oil changes is made aware of this issue.
Thats the best way otherwise I can almost guarantee a problem. Don't forget that in addition to NOT spinning the filter onto the cooler they must use a torque wrench at the specified spec too.
 

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Still convinced your dealer is going for "the most expensive potential fix to bill Ford"?
...
I'm worried that the dealer sees a big repair opportunity since the truck is still under the factory 36/60 mile powertrain warranty and goes for the most expensive potential fix to bill Ford.
...
Guess who's picking up the full cost (parts & labor) on replacing the damaged valve cover...
 
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PLUS, the fact that they didn't own up to damaging the valve cover tells you all you need to know about the quality of the people at the dealership. It wouldn't surprise me AT ALL that they sent the damage into FORD as pre-existing and are getting paid for this repair as well. Sorry, but I'm not a lobbyist or advocate for the Automobile Dealers Association...just a guy who wrote a BIG check for a truck and simply expects the dealer(s) to honor their obligations and simply be honest. They would have scored major points by admitting to the mistake upfront and saying they are going to make it right. That I would understand but by deliberately obfuscating the facts reinforces my earlier statement that the dealers do for the dealer first, not the consumer. If you don't believe me, take a look at new and used car prices, are those $10k+ above MSRP to help you or the dealer??
 

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I'm struggling with why your having these issues in the US. Nearly every land rover discovery sold in the UK from about 2010 has an earlier version of your engine with exactly the same oil cooler/oil filter housing. We don't have this issue. We have other issues (cranks snapping) but not basic failure to fit the oil filter properly, or failure to use the correct oil.

Its interesting to see what human factors cause based on assumed ways of doing things.
 

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I did my 2nd oil change about 3 weeks ago. Used the factory 5w-30 oil and motorcraft filter. The day I changed it I had the message pop up a couple of times of low oil pressure. I checked the cap on the filter to make sure it was tight and snugged it up a little further and the message went away and didn't see it again. Now today it happened 5 times on the way to work. Usually just for a second and by the time you could hit the "OK" button it was gone. One time sitting at a red light it lasted for a few seconds to the point I was getting a little bit of panic. Any ideas what to look for??
We’ll two things in my experience 1. Did you spin the filter onto the cooler inside the filter housing? 2. Did you torque the housing to spec?
These are both potential problem creators with this F’ed up filter design. I know I just got my truck back from the dealer who had it for 2 weeks to replace the oil cooler due to dealer damage. Dealers are not familiar with this design hence the brain damage…plus it’s unlike the super duty which they see everyday
 

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I'm struggling with why your having these issues in the US. Nearly every land rover discovery sold in the UK from about 2010 has an earlier version of your engine with exactly the same oil cooler/oil filter housing. We don't have this issue. We have other issues (cranks snapping) but not basic failure to fit the oil filter properly, or failure to use the correct oil.

Its interesting to see what human factors cause based on assumed ways of doing things.
Human factor = no dealer training ….
 

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I was reading other forums trying to find that elusive rubber oil anti-drain back valve installed under the flat spring under the oil filter in our trucks. Didn't find a source for the anti-drain back valve, but did come across a simple way to check if the oil anti-drain back valve is functioning properly prior to the oil filter change.

When doing an oil change, drain the crankcase first. Then when the flow of the draining oil has slowed way down to drips, loosen the oil filter housing while someone else is watching the oil flow from the crankcase. If there's an increase in oil flow while the oil filter is loosened, then the oil anti-drain back valve is working properly (keeping oil in the filter after the engine has stopped). On the other hand, if there's not an increase in oil flow from the crankcase when the oil filter is loosened, the anti-drain back valve is not working properly.
 

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Can someone confirm that when using auto start/stop, the oil pressure is supposed to drop off after a few seconds upon engine shutdown? I assume this is normal, I've never had a low-pressure warning and truck has 38k miles. After reading this post, I did an OCR and looking at my oil pressures after truck returned to idle, I was at 10psi. I assume the low-pressure light come on when 15psi can't be reached at 1500prm, correct?
 

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Several of us have noticed that the oil pressure “gauge” in the digital display does NOT drop when the engine shuts off—it keeps displaying normal pressure even when the engine is not running!

My truck is a 2021 Lariat with the digital display and the big center screen.

I asked my dealer about this. They were surprised too, but suggested that the software may continue to display the normal oil pressure so that other alarms are not triggered. I’m not sure that’s a good explanation, but clearly some code in the display or ECU software is responsible for that.
 
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