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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Awesome information on this forum that I have read so far. I had another 2018 Lariat Screw with a 2.7 Eco and sold it after trying out a friends 3.0L. So far I have put in a Fox 2.0 level kit, Coverall hard tonneau, new LT285/60R20 Toyo AT3s, and soon a Titan 40 gallon tank. Next up will be using Forscan to do a couple of simple updates/mods that most all do.

Couple of questions for the group:

1. Has anyone tried the Archoil AR6500 fuel treatment in these 3.0L? My brother is a Diesel tech and swears by it for his modified 6.0L

2. I have already hung a fuel nozzle in my capless setup once (1 hour of my life I'll never get back), is there any updates on what to look for for these nozzles or has any tried to convert to a Camlock cap from a F250? (like this one: Titan Fuel Tanks - Universal Filler Neck Kit - 2017-2019 Ford Powerstroke Cab & Chassis | Thoroughbred Diesel)

Thanks for allowing me to join, hope to contribute when and where I can.
 

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Welcome! Congrats on the new truck, looks like you can do everything you are wanting with your interest in these things. Our administrator @jmperlik has done the 40 gallon modification and loves it, he will be a good source of information on that issue.

Great looking truck. I too got a pump nozzle hung up so I removed all the green stuff hardware. It was not a fun modification but I am pleased with the results. Someone on here did weld a F250 nozzle onto his, maybe I can find the thread for you. Check this one out here. Note: don't do what I do, I am an idiot so do your research and follow the experts!

There is currently an active thread on additives, feel free to add your comments as well. It started as a fuel pump failure thread but morphed into a lube one here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome! Congrats on the new truck, looks like you can do everything you are wanting with your interest in these things. Our administrator @jmperlik has done the 40 gallon modification and loves it, he will be a good source of information on that issue.

Great looking truck. I too got a pump nozzle hung up so I removed all the green stuff hardware. It was not a fun modification but I am pleased with the results. Someone on here did weld a F250 nozzle onto his, maybe I can find the thread for you. Check this one out here. Note: don't do what I do, I am an idiot so do your research and follow the experts!

There is currently an active thread on additives, feel free to add your comments as well. It started as a fuel pump failure thread but morphed into a lube one here.

Thanks Dunrollin! I will check those out! My biggest thing is I still have a 4yr/125K warranty so I have to be a little careful.
 

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@Bigcat76us - let me be the 2nd to welcome you here to the forums! I have same truck but in silver and love it.

I do have the Tiran 40 gal XXL replacement tank installed on mine but I did not muss with the filler neck, which I think is what you are asking about (based on the link you included)

@Dunrollin - I think @Bigcat76us is looking to solve the nozzle-stuck-in-the capless-filler-neck issue, which you sir are our resident expert on! Can you point him at your thread where your photo-documented what you did?

Glad you are willing to contribute here and welcome again to the forums!
 
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I think the best answer to the fuel inlet issue was offered by our member @RRL24 who bought an inlet for a F350 and welded it on in place of our smaller inlets. He also bought a twist on cap. I should do this but it is low on the list of things to do.

Here is the one he bought: 2.25" O.D. Diesel Filler Tube / Weld On Neck - 6.75" Tall - 2-1/4" OD

Automotive tire Font Cylinder Rectangle Auto part


and his finished project looked like this:

Communication Device Gas Electric blue Trunk Auto part


This was part of the discussion in post 16 of This thread. I bet my "welding" would be a little insufficient for this one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@Bigcat76us - let me be the 2nd to welcome you here to the forums! I have same truck but in silver and love it.

I do have the Tiran 40 gal XXL replacement tank installed on mine but I did not muss with the filler neck, which I think is what you are asking about (based on the link you included)

@Dunrollin - I think @Bigcat76us is looking to solve the nozzle-stuck-in-the capless-filler-neck issue, which you sir are our resident expert on! Can you point him at your thread where your photo-documented what you did?

Glad you are willing to contribute here and welcome again to the forums!
@jmperlik - I'm looking to upgrade to the 40 gallon Titan tank today/tomorrow. The question I have is on the ForScan update, best to do it before or after the tank install. BTW - Thanks for the detailed instructions (from one IT guy to another)
 

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@Bigcat76us - to be honest, I don't think it really makes a big difference if you make the change before or after. If you can make the change after you swap in the new tank and before you fill it up, that is your best shot for getting it close on the first try.

When I did mine, I planned it out perfectly to have the tank as empty as I could before I dropped it off at the dealer before going on vacation for 2 weeks, with the request for them to make the FORScan change after installing the tank but before filling it up. I made my change after the install only because my dealer balked at making the FORScan change after installing and filling up the tank. Making the FORScan change after the first fill-up after the new tank will be off, but you can still always use the manual gauge that is based on the float. The next fill-up after the change should be much more accurate.

The reason I say it doesn't really matter because the on-board computer uses the average mileage from your previous tank to re-calculate the DTE for your next fill-up everytime based on the tank size set in FORScan. I usally see ~820-850 mile DTE on a fill-up, but I can get than into the 900s if the previous tank was mostly highway mileage = it's not a preset amount it reverts to but rather a DTE calculation based on number of gallons x previous tank's MPG.

At the end of the day, the only thing that really matters is that DTE is accurate the closer you get to zero, which it is pretty accurate = just watch out for the tank after you make the FORScan change and it will settle in naturally after that.

If you have any other FORScan-related questions, feel free to DM me.
 
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