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Anyone running an engine oil bypass system? I dont see any kits for our trucks.
Oil Bypass System
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Yessir... the picture in the link below is my engine bay
insanediesel.com
I have more pictures of the install process if you're interested.
Ford 3.0L Powerstroke V6 Turbodiesel Bypass Oil Filter
Ford Powerstroke 3.0L V6 Turbodiesel Bypass Oil Filter Details This kit includes: Extreme1 bypass oil filter housing Extreme1 Filter element 2 In/Out elbow fittings (E4MP6M) Oil filler cap fitting (6MJ-2MP, straight) 4 hose fittings (P6JF) Oil pressure switch tee fitting system (TP30MFF +S4MP6M...
insanediesel.com
I have more pictures of the install process if you're interested.
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14 Posts
I am very interested!
Was looking at this kit earlier. I can see the return oil goes back through the cap which is pretty common with these systems. But where are you pulling the oil?
I have been trying to find detailed info on this engine and having a hard time. Considering it's been around in Jaguars and land rovers there isnt much info . . . I guess people with those cars don't modify lol.
Was looking at this kit earlier. I can see the return oil goes back through the cap which is pretty common with these systems. But where are you pulling the oil?
I have been trying to find detailed info on this engine and having a hard time. Considering it's been around in Jaguars and land rovers there isnt much info . . . I guess people with those cars don't modify lol.
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Oil is being pulled thru the pressure sensor, you'll see in the pictures below.
Haha, yeah man I definitely got the "universal" kit and figured it out on my own... trial & a comedy of errors! They were really cool about machining a head gasket that fit, we went through 4 cap iterations.
There is a cool "coffee table" pamphlet/book that one of the members posted on this website which is good for getting a lay of the land under the hood and with the exhaust system, let me know if you can't find it.
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19 Posts
you'll see the oil sensor once you get the engine cover off, you'll be able to remove it with a socket wrench after you remove the wires.
after bracket installed, oil pressure still reads just fine, had zero issues with this bracket... any of these you can get from NAPA if they have the hydraulic specialist and parts in store. Get the crows' feet to help you torque this bad boy down, unless you like seeing your engine bleed out (not fun!).
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14 Posts
Wow
Very clean instal! I am impressed.
I have to admit I want to do this myself but messing with the oil system still scares me a bit. How was it?
The kit they are selling now has the parts you figured out I assume?
How much more oil capacity did you invrease to account for this filter? Is the cap with the hose in it hard to remove now to add oil?
You added insulation to the radiator hose? To prevent heat gain to oil?
Very clean instal! I am impressed.
I have to admit I want to do this myself but messing with the oil system still scares me a bit. How was it?
The kit they are selling now has the parts you figured out I assume?
How much more oil capacity did you invrease to account for this filter? Is the cap with the hose in it hard to remove now to add oil?
You added insulation to the radiator hose? To prevent heat gain to oil?
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19 Posts
How was it? - Straightforward once i found the oil sensor port, no welding/wiring/reprogramming necessary. That oil port install was tricky because of space but it can be done with a set of wrenches and some sweat (I would try and use crow's feet as well if I had to do it again). Make sure you torque everything down, and take your time.
The kit they are selling now has the parts you figured out I assume? I believe everything but that sweet bracket for the engine bay-Biggest thing you get with the kit is the return cap. I had to go to NAPA for the JIG hydraulic connectors because of sizing but I am pretty sure that they addressed this in the kit. It looks like they haven't provided install instructions yet (most likely because they haven't settled on a mounting location for the filter that uses their bracket), this will be annoying for you but nothing that's insurmountable.
How much more oil capacity did you increase to account for this filter? - Approximately 1 quart (I can't remember and also I lost some oil because I didn't tighten up enough); take your time putting that extra oil in so you don't do something crazy like float the crankshaft. Again, just take your time because it will be the last time you need to change your oil for a while if you do it right. Also, this may seem obvious but pick an oil that you really like for the change if you want to see how long you can use it.
Is the cap with the hose in it hard to remove now to add oil? No, not as "easy" but that is a very relative term; I've never thought I wouldn't be able to remove it. Biggest change with the cap is it does get hot to touch because of the oil moving thru it, so you should use a rag/glove/etc to remove it if you don't have time to wait for it to cool down.
You added insulation to the radiator hose? To prevent heat gain to oil? I added it for two reasons: primarily to reduce wear on the hose from potential rubbing during driving (did this also with the plastic covers on the other two hoses as well, keeps a nice stock look.... secondly yes from a very unscientifically general feeling that I don't want two hot things touching each other directly like that (I am not too concerned, I haven't even looked up the potential temp difference to see if this concern is founded), especially when one surface is metal and the other is rubber/composite. Its a simple foam wrap, I'll take a picture and post it today. This is not an issue if you find a spot on the frame, however then you have this nagging feeling of "what if a rock hits it?" everytime you go off road. The world is your oyster with the filter location!
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The kit they are selling now has the parts you figured out I assume? I believe everything but that sweet bracket for the engine bay-Biggest thing you get with the kit is the return cap. I had to go to NAPA for the JIG hydraulic connectors because of sizing but I am pretty sure that they addressed this in the kit. It looks like they haven't provided install instructions yet (most likely because they haven't settled on a mounting location for the filter that uses their bracket), this will be annoying for you but nothing that's insurmountable.
How much more oil capacity did you increase to account for this filter? - Approximately 1 quart (I can't remember and also I lost some oil because I didn't tighten up enough); take your time putting that extra oil in so you don't do something crazy like float the crankshaft. Again, just take your time because it will be the last time you need to change your oil for a while if you do it right. Also, this may seem obvious but pick an oil that you really like for the change if you want to see how long you can use it.
Is the cap with the hose in it hard to remove now to add oil? No, not as "easy" but that is a very relative term; I've never thought I wouldn't be able to remove it. Biggest change with the cap is it does get hot to touch because of the oil moving thru it, so you should use a rag/glove/etc to remove it if you don't have time to wait for it to cool down.
You added insulation to the radiator hose? To prevent heat gain to oil? I added it for two reasons: primarily to reduce wear on the hose from potential rubbing during driving (did this also with the plastic covers on the other two hoses as well, keeps a nice stock look.... secondly yes from a very unscientifically general feeling that I don't want two hot things touching each other directly like that (I am not too concerned, I haven't even looked up the potential temp difference to see if this concern is founded), especially when one surface is metal and the other is rubber/composite. Its a simple foam wrap, I'll take a picture and post it today. This is not an issue if you find a spot on the frame, however then you have this nagging feeling of "what if a rock hits it?" everytime you go off road. The world is your oyster with the filter location!
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