[seallworth]

Hey everyone.

New to the forum, and to the F-150. Recently purchased a 2018 w/ the 3.0 powerstroke. Not new to diesels but my experience has mostly been VW TDIs. VW indicates topside oil changes for the newer TDIs using an extractor. Its clean, fast, and does a really great job of sucking all the gunk out, better even I think than a traditional gravity oil change. Filters are canister-type and located as to be accessed easily from under the hood looking down.

My question then is this: the way that the 3.0 is set up, it seems like it is BEGGING for a topside oil change, almost as if some engineer designed it that way. Furthermore, all the stuff I've seen on DIY oil changes makes it seem like a PITA to get done in the traditional manner. Anyone know of any good reason that you COULDN'T change the oil with an extractor? Or better yet: has anyone tried this method? If its explicitly cautioned against, then the good ol' fashioned way it is I guess.

Cross-posted this on F150forum, hope that doesn't tick anyone off... I can't quite figure which site has the best platform support yet so I guess I'll just try both haha :grin2:

Thanks!

 

[jmperlik]

@seallworth - Welcome to our little club and congrats on your 2018 F150 PowerStroke purchase!

For any new members purchasing a 2018 model (new or used), I point them at the START HERE: Any owners affected by FSA 18E02 (EGR By-pass valve replacement) thread to ensure that FSA 18E02 has been performed.

Good question on the top-side oil change! Not sure what Ford's official position is -- I don't have one as my Ford dealer handles all of my oil changes under an Extended Maintenance plan, but I am sure other will chime in with their knowledge and opinions...

 

[Silver Super D]

I did the extractor method on my first oil change only to discover it didn’t remove all the oil, (almost two quarts) from the pan. It seems there might be some kind of baffle or screen that limits access to the lower part of the oil pan by way of the dipstick tube. Did my second oil change the traditional way on ramps and pulling the drain plug, was very easy to do.

 

[Dunrollin]

I have done about 4 changes on a 3.0. Not too bad really. I can do it without spilling a drop usually, which I can't do with my 5.0 V8. I have heard some of the new auto start stop engines don't have a clear path to the oil sump and they can't be siphoned, not sure about the 3.0.

I did as suggested by someone earlier- drill a large hole in the "diaper" so you can access the drain plug without removing the diaper. Easy peasy.

 

[seallworth]

@Silver Super D
Solid take. This is exactly what I was afraid of. Looks like I'll be underneath the truck then.

 

[jmperlik]

@seallworth - from Page 18 of the 3.0L Ford F-150 Diesel Coffee Table Book it looks there is a serious baffle to get around (see attached pics) hence why @Silver Super D may have been prevented from extracting everything in the pan....

The description next to the pictures specifically mention this baffle:

Oil Pan: The oil pan is the reservoir for the engine oil. It incorporates a baffle to keep the engine oil from splashing which prevents aeration and foaming.​

​

Others have gone the Fumoto F107 route discussed in this thread: Engine Oil Drain Plug

 

[Kpalmer34]

Same experience with the topside extractor here. Could only get about 4 quarts out using that method. I installed a Fumoto valve and just run a clear hose down through the hole in my RCI skid plate and it seems to work fine.

 

[Laytunes]

@seallworth - from Page 18 of the 3.0L Ford F-150 Diesel Coffee Table Book it looks there is a serious baffle to get around (see attached pics) hence why @Silver Super D was prevented from extracting everything in the pan....

The description next to the pictures specifically mention this baffle:

Oil Pan: The oil pan is the reservoir for the engine oil. It incorporates a baffle to keep the engine oil from splashing which prevents aeration and foaming.​

Others have gone the Fumoto F107 route discussed in this thread: Engine Oil Drain Plug

I doubt the baffle would affect anything, as the tube would follow the hole in there for the dipstick. But either way, draining from the bottom is always better.

 

[seallworth]

So I couldn't help myself and attempted a topside via extractor today. Similar to what others have experienced, I had some issues getting full capacity out. Readjusted the siphon tube and, with the appropriate OD tubing and some repositioning, was able to get a little over 6 quarts out. I figured maybe with what was left in the filter I may have got just about all of it out but I'm glad I decided to check just to be sure. Undid the drain bolt and got about another full quart out.

On a positive note, it really is super simple to get the "diaper" out of the way, and I don't even need to put the truck on ramps or anything to crawl under there to drain it (I'm on 315/70/17s with a level, so to others about to attempt a first oil change on your truck: YMMV). So I guess it really wouldn't save time anyways.

 

[Dunrollin]

Thanks for posting, should help others save time. I am still a big fan of cutting a 2" hole in the diaper, makes everything real easy. Still have to get a Fumoto valve for this.

 

[FUGAZI]

6.5 exactly out of mine. This was my third oil change. Had to get a hose extension to make it go easy, first time was tricky, but I can now change oil in 10 mins or less.

 

[Dunrollin]

Very impressive first post, @FUGAZI 6.5 is exactly what the owners manual says she holds.

Also a very impressive garage. Mine is a plain concrete floor and there is no beatiful airplane in the background. Thank you for the update and welcome to the site.

 

[FUGAZI]

Thank you Dunrollin. It’s my man cave and office at the local airport. I am fortunate to have a setup.

Yesterday was my second trip to dealer since buying truck. Just turned 31k miles. Check engine light was on. Borrowed a buddies reader and got “P2201”. They flashed it and all is well. I didn’t have any noticeable drive ability issues.

My first visit to dealer was in end of 2019 (for the AC condensate TSB repair) but I guess before the dreaded EGR recall. Waiting for dealer to get all the parts in hand so I can take her back in....hope I dodged the bullet. Don’t hear anything so fingers crossed.

Does anyone have a reliable source to buy the maintenance manual? There is a place/shop in town that rents bays with lifts and has lots of tools on site. I want to change the diffs, tranny, transfer cases and plus upgrade my rotors & pads for towing. The boat and trailer are at 10k # with fuel tank half full.