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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So for reasons I wont go into, the nut on the oil filter canister housing has been rounded off. The 32MM socket wont bite at all. New housing has already been ordered and will be here this week. Side note $57.00 for the housing through Ford. The dilemma now is how to remove the old one. Drive on a 31 or 30MM socket or.... Any ideas or advice would be appreciated. All this plastic is frustrating!!
 

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Enough room to slip on a band-style oil filter wrench around the outside cannister?
 

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This is interesting. I have been worried about this, especially with the lower fuel filter housing which is similar. My 3 ideas are worth what you are paying but here goes. Large vise grip with a pipe on the handle, plumbers pipe wrench and finally drill a 1/2 inch hole in the top of the filter at the nut and insert a strong bar (drill bit?) and twist.
 

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How about something like this: Universal 3 Jaw Adjustable Oil Filter Wrench
May need to glue sandpaper to the contact surfaces to get a better grip on the plastic oil filter can.

OR, another option may be to use a soldering iron and melt two holes on opposite sides of the rounded-off nut shaped area of the oil filter can. Then push a nail or short rod through the holes, and use the rod for the twisting force, perhaps with a large channel-lock pliers partly open. Melting the holes keeps plastic bits from getting in the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The vice grip route is what I am leaning towards. Its to tight down in the valley to actually grip the canister. The nuclear option would be to cut it out but I want to avoid that at all costs. Just changed the frame fuel filter with no problems but you really have to torque on that to get it lose. Dunrollin is correct, eventually someone will round one of those off too...
 

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Wow that is tricky. I am thinking (after you get the replacement) shoot two holes in the top with a drill bit about an 1” apart and use needle nose vise grips to rotate….think of it like a boat fuel cap that needs the “key”. I can get some pictures if you need illustrations
 

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Grind a slot across the rounded off nut and turn it with a large screw driver and vise grip.
 

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So for reasons I wont go into, the nut on the oil filter canister housing has been rounded off. The 32MM socket wont bite at all. New housing has already been ordered and will be here this week. Side note $57.00 for the housing through Ford. The dilemma now is how to remove the old one. Drive on a 31 or 30MM socket or.... Any ideas or advice would be appreciated. All this plastic is frustrating!!
That actually happened to me and I had to order a new housing. I drilled a hole into the side of the fitting and stuck screwdriver through it to twist it off. Worked like a charm
 

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So for reasons I wont go into, the nut on the oil filter canister housing has been rounded off. The 32MM socket wont bite at all. New housing has already been ordered and will be here this week. Side note $57.00 for the housing through Ford. The dilemma now is how to remove the old one. Drive on a 31 or 30MM socket or.... Any ideas or advice would be appreciated. All this plastic is frustrating!!
Dude that sucks. I have been worried about that happening - or the metal cylinder snapping off inside the plastic housing when I pull the old filter off. I found an OEM replacement that came with a new filter and ordered it just in case. 18 Ford F150 3.0 3.0L Powerstroke Diesel OEM Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter & Cap | eBay

As for the old one, if there is any meat on the top left at all and you were not using a 6 pt socket, I would start there (unlikely, but had to check), or if you have access to a set of XI-ON sockets they may be able to get some bite. If it is completely rounded you could try and find a 32mm x 3/4"Twist Socket. Though the closest one I could find was in Australia! 32mm x 3/4" Drive Impact Twist Socket T&E Tools T4532 | eBay
 

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Sinister diesel used to make a billet aluminum For the 6.0 and 6.4 Has anyone came across a metal cap for the oil filter housing for the 3.0 I am curious if those caps fit our trucks
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
New part has arrived. Worked on it a bit last night with vice grips and channel locks. No go, just not enough room to get a solid bite. Thinking of going the route that DieselNewb suggested. Wondering if it makes a mess=oil pouring out of the hole that will be drilled. Plan is to drill down at an angle near the nut and insert screwdriver/bar and twist off. When I picked up the new canister the parts guy called the diesel tech into the office. The tech did say in the future that hand tight and then just a "nudge" more is plenty for these canisters. This happened to me on my 4th oil change, never had an issue before this.
 

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When I picked up the new canister the parts guy called the diesel tech into the office. The tech did say in the future that hand tight and then just a "nudge" more is plenty for these canisters. This happened to me on my 4th oil change, never had an issue before this.
Sounds like good advice. Thanks and hope you can get it done soon.
 

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I think @navyR113's #2 would be your best shot and for less than $30 I may just pick one up for my tractors!
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sorry for the delay in response. Situation went from bad to worst. After trying several ideas I drilled a hole and tried a screw driver. No luck, just kept breaking the plastic so I towed it to my trusted for years independent mechanic. He had never seen anything that tight. Almost like the "O" ring sized to the aluminum housing. Needless to say he broke the aluminum oil cooler housing trying to remove the filter canister, sooo he is currently tearing the top half of the engine apart to remove and replace the oil cooler-that is if we can even find one to order... Beyond frustrated with this design! To get the cooler out, the valve covers have to be removed which means the ERG piping into the top of engine has to come off. On a side note once the EGR piping was removed a peek inside revealed TONS of soot. Not happy about that either. 20700 miles with ZERO problems but now I am concerned. Simple oil change turns into this and seeing the soot and Ford dropping the 3.0 has me wondering if I keep it or move on. Its a shame, waited for an F150 diesel for decades and was beyond excited when it finally happened.
 

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I think I will go to the garage and check if mine loosens. Wow, what a story. I was sure it would come loose with the methods you tried, you are correct this shouldn't be this bad. I have removed mine 3 times in the past and while stiff it wasn't like you described. I agree the oring must have seized.
 

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Andy, thanks for the update. That's extremely frustrating.
Begs the question of what to do and / or what not to do to ensure the plastic oil filter cap (canister) does not get stuck to the aluminum housing.
 
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