Diesel F150 Forum banner

P026A Charge Air Cooler Inefficient

1123 Views 16 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Dunrollin
4
Fellas: I was pulling a little 5' x 10' trailer last weekend with my 2019 F150 3.0 Powerstroke, and my check engine light came on. Turns out it was the P026A, and with a little research, could mean a few things. I have a Addictive Desert Designs pre-runner bumper with an aluminum skidplate that is literally right in front of the intercooler. Please see attached pictures. Any suggestions as to how to fix this? I could drill a few 'speed' holes in the skidplate to help with the airflow. Any other advice is always welcome. Much appreciated.

Attachments

See less See more
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
It looks like the skid plate is removable? If so that would confirm if it is restricting air too much.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Yes, it is removable, but I like having it there, so that's why I was thinking about putting some holes/slats in the aluminum.

Other than checking the coolant level, what else can I rule out easily with the P026A code? Thanks for the reply, Dunrollin.
yeah, cut enough holes to flow air to the intercooler, or remove it. really the only two ways to deal with it.
Other than checking the coolant level, what else can I rule out easily with the P026A code?
I haven't looked into it, but I wonder if there may be information available via FORScan where the air cooler air temperature could be monitored with, and without, the aluminum skidplate installed?
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Looks like you are in the same boat as @nenad: F-150 Diesel Engine and Bullbar interference
3
Thanks for the replies. Am I safe to assume that the 'louvers' can open or close, depending on intake air temp?

I am planning on drilling a few 3" circles (used far too much painters blue tape, trust me) when the hole saw bit comes in from Amazon tomorrow, then taking a cut off wheel, and connecting them, to make a good sized 'slot' to promote airflow. Skidplate is aluminum, and kind of have one shot at this, so bouncing around different designs for sure.

Thoughts?

Attachments

See less See more
The lower shutters can be a real pain. Mine went out of adjustment and gave me a long and frustrating journey to get rid of the MIL light. I like your design, and I think you are on the right track. In fact I bet you would solve it with just one of the rows cut.

When you start the engine the lower blades are fully open, they then go through a 15 second check of closing and re-opening, then they close again and you are on you way. Once the sensors call for cool air they re-open. Be sure to clear all codes before you test your new design as the codes are quite persistant.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Fellas: I was pulling a little 5' x 10' trailer last weekend with my 2019 F150 3.0 Powerstroke, and my check engine light came on. Turns out it was the P026A, and with a little research, could mean a few things. I have a Addictive Desert Designs pre-runner bumper with an aluminum skidplate that is literally right in front of the intercooler. Please see attached pictures. Any suggestions as to how to fix this? I could drill a few 'speed' holes in the skidplate to help with the airflow. Any other advice is always welcome. Much appreciated.
It’s 100% the skid plate that is blocking the airflow. Last year I try to install a push bumper with a deer guard on it and it threw the same code. You cannot put anything in front of that or it’s just not going to get enough airflow. I ended up, taking the bumper off and returning it to the manufacture to my knowledge even though manufacturers claim it’s OK to put it on the diesel, it is not. None of these manufacturers have done any testing to see if their products work on a diesel versus a gasoline engine. Just because it bolts on doesn’t mean it’s going to work .
  • Like
Reactions: 1
2
@whunderwood, might it be worthwhile to do a "before" and "after" with FORScan to evaluate how much difference there is with the slots cut in the aluminum skidplate?

Below are two pictures of the wide range of PIDs that can be monitored in FORScan. The first picture is the PCM PIDs with "air" in the name. The second picture is the PCM PIDs with "shutter" in the name. Perhaps before and after readings on the Charge Air Cooler temperatures may be interesting. Some of the other PIDs may also be interesting.

Font Paper Number Writing Document


Font Paper Multimedia Screenshot Document
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
2
Great info, gentlemen!

@STIAJW: I don't really have any access to the FORScan tools, other than the dealership. Do you think one of the techs would take a little ride with me and see what the temps are?

So a little more backstory, to clarify. Originally, I set the 'check engine' light off pulling the 5' x 10' trailer, loaded with 50 10' long panels; I think the panels weighed 26 lbs a piece. 50 x 26 = 1,300 lbs
Arrived at my destination, unhooked the trailer.

The next day, with the 'check engine' light on, pulled this trailer loaded with the Bobcat, tree shears, and grapple bucket. Guy at Sunbelt Rentals said it was in the neighborhood of 7-8k lbs, and truck didn't nearly have the power it usually does. Very hilly roads in the Texas Hill Country and I was taking it easy.

Cut holes in the skidplate last night, via drill press and cordless drill, no turning back now. Thanks for all the useful information. I am really hoping these holes in the skidplate help with power, and keep the check engine light off. I don't really pull much at all, maybe a few times a year.

Cheers and happy Thursday.

Attachments

See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Do you think one of the techs would take a little ride with me and see what the temps are?
Good question. Perhaps for a fee. But, I'm guessing as I have very little experience with dealer service departments because I do the maintenance and most repairs on my vehicles.
Regarding FORScan, it is a quite powerful tool. A very good explanation and resource: START HERE: New FORScan user education | Diesel F150 Forum
...The next day, with the 'check engine' light on, pulled this trailer loaded with the Bobcat, tree shears, and grapple bucket. Guy at Sunbelt Rentals said it was in the neighborhood of 7-8k lbs, and truck didn't nearly have the power it usually does. Very hilly roads in the Texas Hill Country and I was taking it easy.

Cut holes in the skidplate last night, via drill press and cordless drill, no turning back now. Thanks for all the useful information. I am really hoping these holes in the skidplate help with power, and keep the check engine light off. I don't really pull much at all, maybe a few times a year.

Cheers and happy Thursday.
The Sunbelt guy may have been a bit optimistic. The skid steer (Bobcat S550?) weighs about 6200 lbs. Add another 900 for the grapple, maybe 1200 for the tree shear, and let's say 3500 for the equipment trailer. Not a lot of aerodynamic drag, but weight in the hills.

The holes in the skid plate have to help, but if you are still getting codes, I'd be looking at the shrouds ahead of the intercooler. On the stock truck, there are no gaps between the cutouts in the bumper and the intercooler itself. Just trying to snake a block heater cord into that opening is a job. I suspect that plastic "shield" under the engine is primarily to direct cooling air where it belongs as well. Beyond that, I would convert the holes in your skid plate to NACA ducts. Let us know if the holes alone addressed the issue.
3
@ beaker: good to know regarding the NACA ducts, I had to google it, but great info.

Had some time to work on the skidplate over the weekend, throwing aluminum chips all over my garage. I thought the thickness of the aluminum was a little thin in the middle when I finished cutting the holes out, so added 1 1/4" aluminum flat bar to add more rigidity.

I'll keep updating this thread with progress, thank you fellas for the valuable information.

Attachments

See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Rough cuts in the thin(ner) aluminum sheet that will go on the outside. Will try to work on it over the weekend with an abrasive wheel. Have a great weekend, guys.

Attachments

See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
6
Had a few hours on Sunday to work on it. I am happy with it, not thrilled. I am my harshest critic, so I want everything to be perfect, immaculate, and look like it was done by a computer, which it wasn't. There is some 'bow' to it, and I could probably put a pencil in between the screen and outer aluminum sheet. I can see some little imperfections about the lines not being exactly parallel, but I think that's about all I can do at this point. Kind of tired of messing with it, and want it to be done and finished at this point.

Does anyone know of a company that can cut a sheet of aluminum to the rough specs attached, either with a laser, water jet, or something similar? I am in Houston, TX, and reached out to a few companies this Sunday afternoon, and waiting to hear back from them during normal business hours. I'm just curious of what it would cost...

Let me know what you think, fellas. Thank you for joining along.

Attachments

See less See more
I have low standards I guess, that looks great in my opinion I would just rustoleum black it and drive it.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top