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Hi all,

New member but I've been pushing this truck since I bought it ('19). Never owned a truck before and was pulled into offroading almost immediately after purchase. Im posting here now for two reasons:

1. To entertain folks with the amount of resources I've spent trying to make this truck off-road capable
2. Understand the performance limitations and risks of using software to push this engine

My off-road experience living in Georgia has maxed out at Beasley Knob (body damage but hardest trail in the SE) and in FL in Ocala (dirt roads at 80 mph + whoops until I smashed a hole in my decked w cooler, etc in bed).

My setup is extensive, it's honestly a bit ridiculous (actually dumb) for a truck built to tow:

1. ICON stage 4 front and rear suspension (2.5 in diameter with resi), delta UCA
2. RPG tie rods
3. Rocky Road custom rock sliders
4. ADD front, Road Armor back (with a winch that I bought after getting stuck in no man's land)
5. 35in geo mt on 701 method wheels
6. Too much to list for tent/rack/drawers etc

The aftermarket for this truck is surprisingly extensive.

My biggest issue so far has been burning out the steering rack, and my MAF sensor may be going out. I also have a leaking front differential but luckily under warranty.

Thank you for reading to this point, my next step is likely modifying my ECU, etc. I would love to put the truck on a diet, but I just can't do the black smoke. I've seen GDE mentioned on here alot, everyone's thoughts?

If you have any questions at all about any mods for this truck I've likely made all of the mistakes so pls don't hesitate to ask.

Really looking forward to hearing some insight around the tuning aspect of this engine and what I can expect.

Cheers,

DG
Sky Wheel Tire Vehicle Car
 

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Good looking truck. How many miles on it? I ask because the drivetrain warranty is 100,000 miles, and if you modify the software in the ECU, you will void the warranty. My 2021 is still under the 36/36,000 full warranty, so I have not done any engine mods yet. Others here have experience with tuners and what to get and how to use them.
 

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I remember the 2015 General Motors ad about Ford's new aluminum bodys where they dropped the tool box in the bed and poked a hole in the metal. Sounds like you duplicated that trick! Beautiful truck and mods, glad you shared with us.
 

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I am about one year from running out of my drivetrain warranty and thought hard about a GDE tune. I have decided against a tune for the foreseeable future because I think 3.0L engines have weak bottom ends. Specifically, the engine is a glorified version of the JLR TDV6, which is famous for failed crankshafts and, to a lesser degree, spun crank bearings. Ford has modified the engine with a forged crank, and other other unspecified upgrades, but the fundamental geometry of the crank and main bearings remains unchanged.

With Powerstroke-specific changes, I do not fear any of the bottom end issues with the truck in stock form. I am far less confident of that once I put 30% more power that the reinforced.

For reference, you may want to skip to the 8:00 mark in this installment of a 17-part rebuild:

For a bit of a more technical discussion on this engine, you may want to watch this:

I will most certainly be watching for feedback from people that tune their trucks and it could sway me back that way; for now, I don't see this as an engine that can handle and addition 100hp under continuous high-load operation.

This is only tangentially related, but in the recent past, I put a mild tune (Banks Economind) on my Duramax. Within 5,000 miles, my reportedly bulletproof Allison transmission started slipping in 6th gear. A bit of research later revealed that the Allison will last forever, but they are built to handle exactly the stock power level and nothing more; a $4,000 lesson learned.
 

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beaker, thanks for those videos. I wouldn't try to stack another 100HP on the stock engine either, but there are other good reasons to consider the aftermarket tunes. First, delete the DPF and regeneration cycles. That will reduce heat load on the engine and improve fuel mileage. Second, delete the DEF and cat. You would have to do that to delete the DPF, and vice versa. Third, delete the EGR.

These things should improve engine longevity.
 

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Just a heads up to all… Big brother has been trolling these forums looking for companies that sell emissions defeat systems and products. I’m part of another forum and they have dropped all conversations about these topics after some members got busted. I personally know a guy that got snagged at a random stop with a deleted truck. He got fined and had to restore the truck to stock before he could drive it again. A small bunch of fools like the guy that passed me last week in Florida rolling coal have ruined it for all of us. I am not saying to not have fun. Just saying don’t broadcast it to everyone.
 

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I am about one year from running out of my drivetrain warranty and thought hard about a GDE tune. I have decided against a tune for the foreseeable future because I think 3.0L engines have weak bottom ends. Specifically, the engine is a glorified version of the JLR TDV6, which is famous for failed crankshafts and, to a lesser degree, spun crank bearings. Ford has modified the engine with a forged crank, and other other unspecified upgrades, but the fundamental geometry of the crank and main bearings remains unchanged.

With Powerstroke-specific changes, I do not fear any of the bottom end issues with the truck in stock form. I am far less confident of that once I put 30% more power that the reinforced.

For reference, you may want to skip to the 8:00 mark in this installment of a 17-part rebuild:

For a bit of a more technical discussion on this engine, you may want to watch this:

I will most certainly be watching for feedback from people that tune their trucks and it could sway me back that way; for now, I don't see this as an engine that can handle and addition 100hp under continuous high-load operation.

This is only tangentially related, but in the recent past, I put a mild tune (Banks Economind) on my Duramax. Within 5,000 miles, my reportedly bulletproof Allison transmission started slipping in 6th gear. A bit of research later revealed that the Allison will last forever, but they are built to handle exactly the stock power level and nothing more; a $4,000 lesson learned.
I wouldn't worry too much about this engine. It's not the same as the engine used in the land rovers overseas, and has been upgraded as such.


 
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